Some elements of modern carp fishing rigs and techniques specifically designed only to minimize damage to the trophy when caught.
The West has long been widely used and hooks with barbs and various micro systems secure attachment sinker to the line. The first of these inventions is designed to reduce the size of the wound, resulting in a lip carp when removing it from the hook, the second helps save the lives of the fish in the event of line breakage when pulling the fish.
Still, the main advantage of competent carp mounting - its highest efficiency. The process of manufacturing will take some time, we cannot do without special materials, but your efforts will pay off handsomely.
Carp equipment is known to require the use of special materials. But what exactly should be reserved novice angler to be fully prepared on the waterfront?
Modern Carp Fishing and indeed requires the use of special equipment: carp rods and reels. This fully applies to the installation. To begin with hooks - one of the main elements of the equipment. Normally, carp hooks are equipped with a ring.
Models with a spatula is used to catch this extremely rare (for example, in the embodiment Line Fligner Rig), because the node is less reliable, particularly at the contact of the spatula and braided fishing line. Almost all modern carp hooks have an excellent sharpening and usually black finish. The number range in size from 1/0 to 2/0 number (according to the international classification) can pick up the hook for virtually any fishing conditions.
And I personally have had a case of catching a carp weighing 14 kg on a relatively small hook - № 10, so do not blindly follow the logic: if the carp a big man, then you need to put the largest hooked. It is not necessary that the packaging has been written that the special hooks carp, but they must meet certain requirements.
The thickness of the wire from which they are made, may vary greatly. It is understood that lighter thin wire hooks in combination with good floating baits for catching and without a weight on the floating surface by the nozzle.
But on the course, when the sinking boilie has to lie on the bottom, it is the best fit hook of thick wire, which justified the use of more and because the river carp has great strength and speed. To hurt less caught fish, all modern carp hooks with barbs produce a reduced size.
In principle, the armed needle files, it can be made from any hook, but too carried away doing this is not necessary. I can cite as an example a case from my own practice. At the World Cup in France, all participants were invited to test a new series of carp hooks Multigrip a well-known company, where the role of a micro barb performed three subtle incisions.
After two retirements in a row I had a persistent bias against this solution, although in a sense, the creators have achieved its goal - the fish really injure considerably less. I think it is not only played the role of a micro barb design, but also the shape of the hook.
Almost all modern carp hooks have a slight inward bend the tip so that it can better penetrate into the lower lip of fish, but the length of the forearm may be different. On the long forearm easier to knit snap D'Rig, when the ball moves on the ring along the forearm by a special loop.
A hook with a long forearm is more versatile, in fact, changing the position of cambric, you can adjust the length of the hair, and therefore, the size and type of nozzle.
Leading companies produce a special series of carp hooks, for example, Specialist (firm FOX) or E.S.P. (Firm DRENNAN). Hooks from MAINLINE, KEVIN NASH, ASHIMA also deserve attention.
Now let's talk about leashes, to which those same hooks and tie. Recently, European fishermen, along with wicker increasingly used for this purpose mono fishing line.
Indeed, the material is usually a leash or braided fishing line or strong thread tough mono without memory - the so-called "amnesia". In fact, "Amnesia" - Trademark SUNSET American company that produces these products, but now the name has spread to the whole complex of monofilament flanged materials for carp, with appropriate characteristics.
The line "Amnesia" relatively recently gained popularity among European carp in connection with the advent of "smart" carp, which for a long time trying to tip. Because of its hardness, it scares the carp, who has decided to take the bait, but because it provides a reliable cutting. In addition, it is practically not confused even with extra-long casts.
From the "Amnesia" 0.5mm easy to make for such a wiseacre efficient snap-called D'Rig, in which the bait with a ring attached to it can move along the assembly back and forth (Fig. 2). Incidentally, during the competition in France all our carp were caught on just snap D'Rig. But domestic reservoirs in 90% of cases it is quite enough leash of braided fishing line.
However, conventional braided fishing line, which is now popular among spinning’s, too rigid and ill-suited for our purposes, with the exception of perhaps the most soft pattern of previous years (for example, Gorilla). I use a special for carp. It is smooth, no lint and does not collect in the bottom of trash.
I prefer sinking models that do not arouse suspicion in carp, as well pressed to the bottom and not bristle loops. By the way, you can do any braid sinking with a special "soft lead" - enough to reach through his leash. "A soft lead" and is useful when you want to restrict the height of the lift floating boilie: it is fixed on a leash instead of a lead pellet.
Unwinding carp "Twist" to the coils is usually 10-20 m, but given the length of the leash, a coil enough time. When determining the characteristics of the braid made not to operate in diameter and breaking load. I usually use a fishing line from 15 to 25 Lb (from 6.75 to 11.25 kg), depending on the intended size of the production.
Novice fishermen who have a persistent problem with entanglement soft leash of "Braids" when casting, I would recommend a combination leashes. Two-thirds of the leash is made of "Amnesia", and one-third (the one closer to the hook) - soft braids. Assign a braided fishing line with a mono line are using a special assembly, followed by the junction to cover "soft lead."
With "soft lead" any network turns into a sinking within minutes.
Is not it too difficult for beginners?
If this advice may seem to someone too hard, you can do otherwise: use a regular "Twist", but before casting process it hardens special gel (for example, from KRYSTON), who, after falling into the water quickly dissolved. And you can put on a leash length of rubber tube length of about 40 mm 1.5-2 mm, pulling its one end to the ring swivel to which is attached a leash.
Incidentally, swivels in carp montages used are not always. Sometimes they are replaced by special inserts, and to snap out of "amnesia" is used swivels with soldered them rings.
The carp mounting swivel is not intended to deal with the tightening of line, but simply performs a connecting function between the main line and the leash, so it must be very reliable and small in size. Some carp montages, for example with a sinker "in-line", swivels require a particular size and shape.
The carp montages nozzle attached to the hook by means of "hair", and it is a mandatory rule: only in this case, you can count on efficient slicing down; moreover, it is the only way to secure solid attachment Boyle. There have been many versions of "hair" mount.
In most cases, it works great so-called knotless knot, and when "Hair", and leash is made from a single length of braided fishing line. First, I make a loop at the end of the braid to the stopper, then skip the line through the eye and adjust the length of the "hair". Do 7 to 10 (depending on the size of the hook) revolutions "platting" around the forearm, trying to put her turn to turn, and re-threading the free end through the eye.
If attached to eyelet or hook, the nozzle size can be varied over a broad range "hair" is made of a separate segment (approximately 5Lb with breaking load). However, we should not forget that different in diameter boilies meet certain size hooks, and the hassle of tying individual hair to the hook is added.
I use a separate thin "hair" is usually only when I want to make very delicate hole in the head, for example, if you want to put on it a few maggots, or when fishing in strong current, where a wide opening for "Hair" contributes to more rapid erosion Boyle inside. And when using the snap D'Rig I grew stronger boilie with a special rings and gum.
On the shelves of stores can be seen fishing hard and soft plastic tube, a model with a fastener for securing cargo and sinker, which has already passed through the rigid plastic tube. But I noticed that you do not use either of these options. Why?
I prefer the flexible tubes that are perfectly camouflaged on the bottom. Modern materials allow you to make them heavy enough that they still firmly pressed to the bottom and did not cause suspicion of carp.
The sinker can be attached to these tubes and the side, using a secure safety clasp, and directly on the for "in-line" system. But in fact, and in another case at breakage carp main line has the ability to get rid of weights, which means - to survive.
Branded sinkers for carp extremely varied in shape, weight and even the nature of camouflage coating. But among the fishermen there is a perception that the shape of a sinker for bottom fishing and the quality of its production - a secondary question, saying that will fit any piece of lead soldered to the appropriate size into it a loop for attaching the fishing line. What do you think: in fact, you can do handicrafts mi? And what is required of them in this case?
Where possible and where dictated by the conditions of fishing, I myself often use improvised weights. Hooks - business as usual, and you can go fishing in one easily lose its entire stock of branded weights.
The game in this case is not worth the candle. But in others, I prefer to use branded products, and explain why. First, each "stick" there is a description of how the test - that is, the range between the minimum and maximum weight to throw the bait, for which it is intended and is running as efficiently as possible.
The relationship between the power of the rod and the test is simple and allows you to immediately figure out what will lead to the best stick, and which make the form work is already congestion (or, on the contrary, it under load, which is also bad). On the carp rod test curve is always specified in pounds. So, this is a numerical value indicating its capacity in pounds, and also corresponds to the optimal weight for this rod weights in ounces, plus or minus a half ounce.
For example, if your carp rod test is 3,5 Lb, which means that it, is designed to throw a weight of 3 to 4 oz. One ounce - a little less than 30 g, Georgia should weigh about 90 to 120 g In fact, it is even easier, because almost all branded carp weights are marked it in ounces.
On sinker weight of private production is often not specified, or it does not correspond to reality, and breakage of expensive carp rods on the powerful casting as a result of overload - something very real. In addition, branded weights have a fine tuned aerodynamic shape, which is important, especially for fishing at long range, where the struggle is for every extra meter.
Reliability seal loop and carabineer - too serious question. Personally, I have witnessed how the lugs on the cast came off from homemade weights. Freed from the fishing line, a sinker flies in unpredictable directions, having sometimes really destructive power. And the store is easier to pick up the necessary form sinker: torpedo - for fishing at long range; flat - for fishing within; pear-shaped or spherical - for fishing ponds.
Of course, if the angler essentially uses only homemade weights, he will continue to do so. But it is doubtful whether its products will be useful as crafty, like sinker "in-line", the inner plastic insert is specifically designed for carp swivels number 9.
And what special tools and devices you use while working?
First of all, I advise you to get a pair of scissors or wire cutters for cutting the "Braids". It is not necessary that they be branded fishing. For example, I suffer somehow Seller department stationery and bought himself a pair of scissors by German company ZWILLING, intended, I was convinced, for children's creativity.
I do not know, what exactly this children’s creativity is, but the "Twist" they cut amazing! By the way, a ring of the same scissors good fit to tighten the knots on hooks. And you can use for this purpose and a special device.
For this purpose, glue is needed on the basis of dichloride ethane. It may be a "Laktite" or "Kryston". Be careful, these adhesives firmly stick together not only the knots, but your fingers are, in addition, they are dangerous for the mucosa of the nose and eyes! I use the glue with a brush; it is very easy to use. When a node is processed, you must give it to dry.
To save time, you can use a special hardener Knot Lock Activator or simply moisten node. Needles pushed on boilies - a separate issue. They are long (on the top for receiving the soluble boilies twine garlands) and short (just the top for receiving the boilie on the hook).
If possible, I advise you to get a high-quality tool; cheap needles bend even on soft baits and when the balls dry up - all the trouble! The solid Boyle, who to give them buoyancy have been treated in a microwave oven, a hole has to do with the drill. However, the entire special tools and does not count.
As a number, probably, and a variety of mounting options for carp. Yet tell me, please, what erections are basic, and what is required for their manufacture.
Mounting with Velcro, perhaps the most popular and used more often than others. I usually apply it over large bodies of water and for fishing with long casts. Node securing cargo - a secure clasp safety clip, which I have already described. Let me remind you that the idea of it is that even in the event of breakage carp is able to get rid of sinkers.
Sometimes the opposite tip of the sinker tube I hook on the shock leader pellet or piece of soft lead to better pin him to the ground and make it invisible. Load securing system allows you to quickly change its weight and shape, if necessary.
Installation - deaf as swivel leash tightly inserted into the rubber tube that is inserted onto the clip safety. When fishing in the muddy bottom, I suggest joining a sinker with a clip through an additional fastener. But on top of the swivel and the clasp, wear a rubber tube segment of suitable diameter to installation not cling grass and not confused.
To avoid possible overlaps can, using any of the options proposed above. Complete sets for the production of this installation usually consist of clips, flexible and a set of rubber tubes. Sinkers can be used as purchased or homemade.
Installation "in-line" I often use on ponds and small lakes. It does not require long-distance casting and sinker pear shape is ideal for muddy bottom, because not too deep falls in the mud. This form of sinkers in combination with this installation is also good because, pulling the leash, carp faced with the entire weight of the load, and therefore sweeps obtain maximum efficiency.
But the installation of "in-line" perfectly suitable for fishing in the stream, if, instead of the pear-shaped flat use heavy sinker that best keeps the bottom. We can say that in the presence of weights of different shapes "in-line" system is in some sense universal. There is often used a special method of fixing the swivel when it is inserted with little effort in a plastic tube, extending along the axis of the sinkers.
Therefore, for such a mounting need swivels cylindrical shape, which will correspond to the internal diameter of the plastic insert?