In recent years, all the major international competitions, up to the world championships, prizes divided among anglers in England, France and Italy. I have repeatedly been to Europe and many hours spent on the beach with a fishing rod in the company's award-winning athletes, which allowed me to thoroughly examine all the details of the device sports gear.
I hope that readers will be interested to learn about the structure, scope and technique of catching plug-in rod, Bolognese fishing rod and a fishing rod "kvivertip".
Before talking about the design features of the gear, it is necessary to draw attention to the fact that each of them is used in certain, specific circumstances.
BOLOGNA fishing rod catches on throughout. The device of this gear in fishing involves wiring a remote release fishing line. Unfortunately, these rods are less effective at catching in stagnant water.
The plug rod (rod with a dull snap) caught in stagnant water, although it is sometimes used on the canals and rivers. Section it is inserted from below into each other, allowing you to assemble the rod of any length. Let me remind you that the maximum length allowed by international rules - 14.5 meters. Attachments are always shorter than the total length of the rod. This makes it possible to do the wiring in any direction: forward, backward, sideways and diagonally.
Fishing rods "KVIVERTIP" with a trough can be used both in still water and in the flow. Unfortunately, our fishermen are not familiar with the device and technique of catching this highly athletic gear.
In vain the fishermen sometimes ignore this operation. Trying to catch, relying only on attracting properties of baits, often turns into a complete failure or modest results. That is why the initial and, believe me, noteworthy step in catching athletes and experienced amateurs is the process of a thorough study of all the underwater irregularities alleged in place of catching. This is especially true if you are fishing on large bodies of water on the area with a relatively flat bottom. There's even a small indentation on the bottom can bring good luck.
It should be noted that each of the sports fishing methods implies own technique study of the bottom relief. When fishing rod you attach the plug depth gauge to its apex, and moving it in different directions, you define the depth. This is a fairly simple and at the same exact way. Ideal - a sensor-transmitter located in the float and connected to the echo sounder 15-meter cable.
When fishing the Bolognese rod, and the rod with long casts typically use a rough estimate of bottom topography: the bait set a medium slope, roughly corresponding to the depth of the fishery, is attached to the hook depth gauge. After casting gear you carefully follow the float: by lowering the bottom of it disappears from the surface of seamounts - lies on its side.
Anglers on the carp come up with a more accurate way to determine the topography of the reservoir bottom. It provides the ability to detect underwater irregularities at a distance of 100 meters or more. This technique brought, in particular, the victory of the English team at the first World Championship in carp fishing, held in 1996 in France. The competition was held in a huge square on the lake. It was the cold weather, and carp, moving away from the coast, centered in the wells at depth.
Thanks to precise hit a lure in detected by the depression of the float marker, located 70 meters from the shore, a team of two people took the first place. They caught 11 carp with a total weight of almost 100 kg, while most of the participants at all left without a catch. I think this technique will attract the attention of domestic fishing enthusiasts because it can be very useful not only for carp fishing, but also for angling with long casts, and even the traditional Donkey. At the same time tackle performs another function: to find interesting place, you can use a marker as a guide for casting the bait and hook with a nozzle.
Fishing rod with a float marker is not an accidental stick with fishing line. Pond, where you fishing, and it may be a 40-meter pond, and then serve you for many years fishing rod is fine to explore the underwater topography, make a mark and scatter around the bait. And if you have another pond to throw twice as far? You just do not have proper gear.
With a special rod with a float marker, you need to constantly practice throwing and drawing weights along the bottom. This should be an iron rule, then and only then you will be able to use this gear in all conditions (the need for long casting, wind, and wave) and get a true picture of the topography of the reservoir bottom. Given the cost of the rest of the equipment, do not retreat before the price marker rod. I use a 3.6-meter rod for carp fishing.
Choose bait tougher, with spacious coil filled with fishing line 0.35 mm, a weight of 90 g and a float-type marker darts. There are many models, most of them are good. But we must bear in mind that some of the special floating models quite lift the sinker when it moves along the bottom of the lake; these floats are also several complicate cast long distances, so pay special attention to their capacity.
My fishing rod with a float marker allows you to work successfully at a distance of 70-75 meters. If I need to make a long-range throw, I take a large reel and the line is thinner (0.25-0.30 mm); to avoid breakages during hard cast, is tied to the end of the main line a few meters of the auxiliary, larger (0.35-0.4 mm) diameter. Connect it with the main fishing line knot. Of course, the thicker section of the fishing line should be slightly longer than the maximum depth of the fishery to connecting node does not cling to through-ring float. On the line put on a sliding float Darts, then be sure to install the bead and, finally, self sinker.
Another option, which I use more often. By sinker tied 15-inch leash, the other end of which is fixed sufficiently large swivel. The main line was passed through the swivel and attached to the float. Between the float and the swivel is required to set the bead.
I must say that it is not necessary to study the bottom of the lake at a time when you are fishing. Many of you are quite regularly visit the same waters, and it is better to spend some special time, and compilation of lake maps, noting its characteristic features. I know that this is not always possible, but keep in mind that if carp scare marker, they cannot come back soon. Once in place and collecting gear, I start throwing bait marker, working from left to right, and checking the pond is not to draw up a clear picture of the topography.
Of course, if some area there are clear signs of the presence of carp, I will not be long water your fishing pole marker. Given the size of the lake, I am neglecting as far as possible. Having waited until the float will appear on the surface, I'm starting mastic is the line, until it will tighten and I do not feel that the float has fallen to a sinker. Then, opening the depositor, I begin to let go of the line for a quarter of a meter at a time as long as the float again does not seem on the surface.
Summarizing the number is released, I conclude about the depth at this point. To simplify operation, the rod can be made on the label between the coil and the first ring and then measure the length of fishing line, like a ruler.
Once released the float to the surface, you see the start note - this may be, for example, 1.5 or 3 meters. Hold the rod in the direction of casting, wind the fishing line to float touched swivel sinkers. Then gently pull the bait, very smoothly, setting the stage for her shoulder at 45 degrees to the horizon, while the tip of it rests on the level of your head. As a result, the sinker has moved along the bottom of 1.5-2.5 meters.
Pull sinker must be under the same angle so that it seemed to have slipped, scraped the bottom. The length of each lift must be constant up to the shore. Otherwise, you may miss the very inconspicuous hole, where the fish is. If the fishing line is not vented, you either have thrown in the bushes, or they are between you and the point of casting. If the bushes are not too dense, the line or float free up, otherwise you need to push the sinker a meter or two, to see if you hit it directly into the brush or they are between you and the sinker and mesh scaffold. Continue to pull up until you reach the edge of the thicket and into the clearing.
At the end of one wire you will have an idea of the general nature of the bottom - slopes and shallows. When you are a fan entire area, formed a detailed picture. Here is one example of the practical application of the information received. It is no secret that, in warmer weather, better fishing in shallow water near the thickets of aquatic vegetation, and in the cold - in deeper water or at the bottom of valleys. If there are any signs of movement of carp, the depth of knowledge will allow you to quickly find the fish trail.
The first exercise is best done in the clear water. Continually monitor how the sinker moves along the bottom. If it goes smoothly, then clean the bottom - sand, clay and silt. If you feel that it is scratching, - land with rocky, gravel bottom. If to move the lead from the spot, it is necessary to pull strongly, then it is easy, you hit on soft mud. If you have to pull all the time, so it is aquatic vegetation (which it will be clear when you pull a sinker). If you are pulled, and the line was a little slack, and then felt a slight push, then you go down the hill.
If Georgia firmly stuck - you're on the other side of the hill and try to raise it to the top of the slope. Raise high the bait and try to move the lead from the spot. So, you find a relatively empty area on the relevant depth. Take one of your carp fishing rod with a sinker and a bare hook and several times you dropped it to the float marker. When the sinker hits the bottom of the tough - this is the right place for you. Even in the muddy waters near aquatic vegetation areas, you will find more solid areas - here they are, and in most cases the most promising places.
Do not rely on the results of the first throw, continue. Sometimes sinker or fishing line clings to a tuft of grass. Consider it carefully. It is fresh? It is old and unpleasant smell? Long stems, short? Is there on the surface of the natural plant feed: bloodworm, snails, and crustaceans? If it is a lot, it's better to you here and fish.
Finally, you were satisfied with the place where your sinker landed carp fishing rods. Now you need to gently pull the line and make a note on it between the spool and the first ring of the rod with a liquid white marker for a typewriter or tying the knot in this place of bright silk thread.
Before proceeding directly to the fishing, lures place, focusing on the float, and rewind your bait marker by pre landmark on the opposite side (tree structure). You can, of course, do not remove the float marker out of the water in the process of catching and guided him on the cast, but in this case too great a danger that Flogged carp confuse fishing line to your rod and rod-marker and then no one can guarantee the outcome of the fight. Therefore, carp athletes prefer to take out the entire bait marker out of the water before catching.
Now, updating, or removing the nozzle with another carp hook, you can re-throw the exact lured place: control the direction of the selected reference point on the opposite shore, and the distance - on a label on the line. You need to throw a little further intended fishing grounds and while the cargo is not touched bottom, quickly mastic is the line before the tag.
All this concerns sports carp using coasters rod- pod and "hair installation." Most anglers catch rods that are equipped with feeders and a few hooks (by the way, the rules of international fishing rod installed on more than one hook is prohibited). How to repeat the casting in the same place, in this case, because the line after cast mastic is impossible to label, as most of the bait is knocked out of the feeder even when hitting the water?
In this case, you can leave a float marker in the water and hope that the fish still do not confuse the line. Another option - after the first cast to the float fixes the line in a special clamp on the spool of your reel. Subsequent casts watch carefully for fishing line, as soon as it ceased to run, sharply post the rod forward.